Day 11: Monja Mangia!

Japanese people may describe monja as their take on pizza, but as a born and bred Brooklyn girl who takes her slice seriously, I don't buy it. For one thing, there is no cheese involved; rather than shredded mozzarella, chopped cabbage is scattered on top of a batter that resembles pancake. If you're gonna compare it to anything, compare it to IHop! Except that the fact it contains so much cabbage would make it healthy by American standards.

Day 10: A Shamisen Serenade

The next day, our stomachs were relieved to have a break from the richness of the previous days' meals;    after a light, healthy dinner of vegetable and tofu nabe, it was our ears that were to be indulged.
I was lucky enough to be at the home of percussionist Kenji Uenozono on the same night renowned shamisen player Shugen Ishii decided to show up. Having played together for many years, their chemistry was impeccable, each change seamless.

 African and Latin American inspired beats drove the performance, pacing the tempo while every stroke of the shamisen string sent shivers down my spine. 

I was entranced, totally captivated by the music coming from these instruments I'd never seen before but vaguely remembered hearing at one time or another in my life, although there was no way of placing when or where. But it didn't matter; I just closed my eyes and let my mind drift along with the melody.

Day 9: "King of Ebi"

My boyfriend called about ten places throughout Miyazaki before finding a place that served what he refers to as "king of shrimp", or ise ebi. Normally, the waters surrounding the prefecture in southern Kyushu are teeming with the succulent creatures around the end of November; this season, however, was a difficult one for the fishermen. If it hadn't been my birthday, he may have had given up. Yet there we were, driving up a winding mountainous road leading towards what was apparently the only restaurant in the entire prefecture that was able to catch the delicacy.

Ise Ebi meat, served on ice with cucumber and lemon

When we arrive, it seems as though the hostess knows exactly what we came for. Shortly after we are seated, two whole ise ebi are brought to our table. The bed of ice and cucumber ring around their "whiskers" suggested that they were caught very recently; it seemed as though they were just pulled from the ocean.

My boyfirend's Ise Ebi

My Ise Ebi

Now you can't see the my boyfriend's ise ebi's eyes, but if you look at mine's you can see that he's not going down without a fight. And fight he does:

Many people of non-Asian decent would view my ingestion of a technically still living creature as cruel, maybe even barbaric. But it is not uncommon for Japanese and Korean people to enjoy eating shellfish like ise ebi and abalone in this state, and honestly, I can't see anything unnatural about it. Come on, when was the last time you switched on the nature channel and saw a bear enjoying a salmon that's been sitting on the river bank for days?

Ise Ebi Miso Soup

In the tradition of "mottainai" (don't waste anything), the waitress took away the remains of our ebi only to bring them back in a boiling pot of miso broth. At this point, the battle was over, and I  was the clear winner. The principle of macrobiotics, based on the eating habits of Japanese people during the Edo period, suggests that when we consume any living or once living plant or animal we take in not only the vitamins it provides but their life energy. If this is indeed true, I think I now have enough fighting spirit to carry me into 2014! No better birthday present than that, unless you count the private hot spring we stayed at that evening.

Day 8: Lunch at Kasui

Kasui Restaurant 

A trip to Fukuoka just wouldn't be complete without fish. Before leaving, we eat lunch at Kasui, which is owned by fashion and lifestyle company Mavazi. Comfortable yet classy, the establishment has several private rooms and a serene ambiance. Who knew a company which boasts not just one, but two amazing menswear shops, could be so successful in the culinary world?

Assorted Sashimi

 If you're ever in town, be sure to also check out Cafe Parkside, directly downstairs from Mavazi's women's shop. The cuisine has much more of a Western spin than Kasui, but the pies with ice cream are amazing!

Day 7: Fukuoka Tonkotsu Ramen

Since the day his friend brough back a package of  not-so-instant Tonkotsu Ramen from his hometown of Kyushu, my fiancee's been raving about it; while the boxed version was amazing, the real thing was even better. Perfectly al dente noodles, thinly sliced pork, and soup deeply flavored with the oils from the meat filled my bowl at this tiny ramen spot that seemed to be frequented by mostly blue collar workers. Bonus: extra noodles were free of charge!

Day 6: Kyoto Kazuki

Despite having been fed heartily the night before, we were a bit "onaka suita" (hungry) when we arrive in Kyoto the next afternoon. Following our amazing sandwich-to-go experience in Tokyo, I had a feeling that it would be equally as safe to purchase a lunchbox at one of the shops in Kyoto's station. I was right. 

For around $6 USD, this obento contained  tamago (egg), ebi (shrimp), kani (crab), and salmon mixed with egg noodles, lotus, and edamame garnished with ginger over a bed of rice. If I hadn't know better, I would have said there was no way this could have been prepackaged. Good luck finding anything this amazing in New York for under ten bucks!

Day 5: Maisen and home cooked "Omotenashi"

After bidding farewell to our Chigasaki friends we headed to Tokyo to catch the train towards Shiga. On the way we grabbed a Maisen sandwich and Asahi from Tokyo Station (yes, you CAN drink beer pretty much anywhere in Japan...including the train station!) 

This Maisen brand "katsu sando" (fried pork sandwich) is nothing like anything you'd pick up from Grand Central or Penn Station. Although it's prepackaged, the bread is more moist than that used in any NYC deli sandwich, plus the pork cutlet is so juicy it pops in your mouth!

Later that evening, after a few stops around Shiga, we arrive at our friend's house and greeted with home-cooked "Omotenashi". Omotenashi is a word used to describe any meal prepared for a special visitor. While my boyfriend warned me that hosts preparing such feasts usually go above and beyond, I was not prepared for anything this extravagantly amazing; despite my stomach's begging me for mercy, my tongue kept yearning for more!

Omotenashi of baked potato, ika (squid), greens in sesame sauce, gobo (burdock) wrapped in pork, hamburg, tamago (egg) with brocolli and red peppers

Day 4: Fisherman's Ramen at Okiemonmaru

Rumor has it that in any given seaside city, the best places to eat are where the fisherman have lunch. After visiting Okiemonmaru in Chigasaki, I can wholeheartedly vouch for that. The lack of odor despite the buckets of freshly caught fish outside the door suggested that the new arrivals would be gone before sundown.

The seafarers who just returned, however, were not responsible for the quick turnover. They sat at the long wooden tables slurping up ramen with such gusto that I knew I was in for something special. I was right. The shoyu ramen, which is ramen in a soy sauce based broth, was incredible. The pork was tender and juicy, the noodles were just right, and it was brought to the table piping hot (shamefully, many ramen restaurants in New York serve theirs lukewarm).  The most amazing part is that the broth had depth without being salty; this was the first time I'd eaten ramen that didn't make me want to down a gallon of water an hour later.

I've never been too keen on shoyu ramen, but thanks to Okiemonmaru it's on the top of my "must eat" list next time I visit Chigasaki. Who knew that you could find some of the best shoyu ramen south of Tokyo at a fish restaurant? Only in Japan! :-)

Day 3: Chigasaki Seafood Festival

We left for Chigasaki early Saturday morning for some much needed weekend r&r. Located about an hour an a half from Tokyo by train, Chigasaki is a bay city with boasts mountain views, good surfing, and some of the best seafood in all of Japan. Accordingly, our welcome lunch at a popular local spot consisted of sea dwelling creatures of a special variety I had never seen before.

Kinmedai

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Sure, I've eaten snapper, but I've never eaten kinmedai (golden eyed snapper). The bare bones that remained once we were through with him evidenced our sheer enjoyment. But before that, there were starters. 

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Nama shirashu are tiny, translucent black-eyed fish that taste kind of like sardines and are eaten raw; their saltiness makes them a perfect match for beer! Our generous server gave us a plate of shoyu shirasu (the same thing but dipped in soy sauce) on the house.

Nama Shirasu

Ika (squid) is one of my favorite types of sashimi, but I'd never tasted it quite like I did here.Not only did it taste as though it had been caught minutes ago, it had a tender, almost creamy texture. 

Toretate Ika (Ika Sashimi)

.The whitefish sashimi was equally as fresh, and the presentation just as gorgeous. 

We finished off with the sawara, a seasonal fish that we Americans know as spanish mackerel. The sprig of brightly colored ginger complimented it nicely.

Sawara

Afterwards, we took a "sampo" (walk) along the shore, Mount Fuji looming behind us.

Day 2: Oishi Udon, done dirt cheap

The following day, which was a Friday, we ate lunch at Sanuki Ramen in Shibuya. It was here I learned a valuable lesson: when it comes to udon, most New Yorkers pay way too much for for soggy noodles drowned in salty hot water.Udon at Sanuki ranges from $3-$5 depending on size, and it is far more flavorful than anything I've ever tasted in New York.
 I was beyond satisfied with my choice of mentaiko udon, which was the perfect balance of broth and perfectly textured noodles. Since I was pacing myself for meals to come, I didn't indulge in the toppings bar with additions such as shrimp tempura and various vegetables; I did, however, take advantage of the free tempura flakes. Next time I'll be sure to order the small so I have room to load up!

Hiyashi bukake mentaiko!