Day 1: Nama Buta

Clockwise from left to right: intestine, tongue, liver

We landed in Tokyo late Thursday afternoon after a 16 hour flight. Luckily, our friend took into account the fact that we'd been sitting for almost an entire day and took us to Nihon Saisei Sakaba, a standing room only yakitori restaurant in the Shinjuku section of Tokyo. Despite guy standing outside soliciting customers Little Italy style, this was far from a tourist place. We enjoyed the standard chicken heart, liver, and white meat on sticks, but the highlight of the meal was the nama buta (raw pork). Incidentally, I like pork in just about any form except ham, and that's exactly what the liver and the tongue resembled. But since I never tasted it and it was in front of me, I had no choice but to try it. Indeed, the texture of both was not unlike ham; what was missing was the gross slimy aftertaste. The liver was surpisingly mild, with only a touch of bitterness. The spicy mustard worked well to balance it out. The tongue was incredibly juicy, and with lemon squeezed over it you'd never realize it hadn't been cooked. The intestine was packed with flavor, like a noodle that had been dipped in pork broth for several days. It may have looked like a hole in the wall, but the food was awesome. We followed our meal with Moa soju at Nikenme and finally karaoke.

A Dream Come True: two weeks in Japan!

So my dream of visiting Japan has finally come true, and  I plan on following my boyfriend's advise to "go devu" (get fat) to the fullest! For the next two weeks, I plan on eating every type of Japanese food I've tried in New York but have been told doesn't compare to here plus so many more things that simply don't exist outside of Japan. There will be things that are raw, things that have wings, things that have fins, and lots and lots of noodles. Stay tuned!

More sake more happy! "Sake in the City" in NYC

How joyfully gluttonous were the mild days of October which ushered in autumn: Pumpkin pie. Halloween candy. And lots and lots of sake. The latter occurred on the 28th, at NYC's Sake and the City event in Chelsea (made possible by JETRO, the Japan External Trade Organization). Now, with the weather becoming colder, all I want to do after work is cozy up at home with a bottle and some otsumami. The only problem? Deciding which I like best! Here's were some of my favorites from "SATC";  once you read through, you'll understand my dilemma. Since the best sake usually comes from the north of Japan, you'll notice that most of these are from more northern prefectures.

Kikusui (From Nigata prefecture)

While from the outside Kikusui's Funaguchi Jukusei may bear a closer resemblance to PBR than to your average sake, it is a force to be reckoned with. At 19% alcohol, this unpasteurized sake is bold, full bodied, and pairs best with broiled eel or spicy Chinese.

Kiminoi Kurahiden (Nigata prefecture)

Kiminoi's Kurahiden is called Emperor's Well for non-Japanese people's easy understanding, but really  "kura" means "warehouse" and "hiden" is a special, secret method; therefore, a more accurate translation is "made by a special method in a secret warehouse".  Nonetheless, their junmai ginjo is packed with rich aromas and complex flavors. Its semi dryness and clean finish make it a perfect match for barbecue or basically anything fried.      

Wakatake Onikoroshi (Shizuoka prefecture)

If you like dry sake, Wakatake Onikoroshi Tokubetsu Junmai is for you. Best with light foods, such as fish (including sushi and sashimi) and pasta.

This two time gold medal winner uses a new strain of yeast derived from flower, which explains Chokaisan Junmai Daiginjo's bold floral notes. Semi dry with a smooth finish, it pairs well with oysters, nuts, or anything creamy (such as Japanese cream stew or penne ala vodka.)

Chokaisan Junmai Daiginjo (Akita prefecture)

"Yuki no Bosha" means "Cabin in the Snow"; the name alone conjures up images of me cuddled in front of a fireplace with no place to go and a glass of the stuff while a blizzard rages outside. But this is not the only reason why this Yamahai Junmai was my favorite I tasted at the expo; it's mellowness, along with notes of chestnuts and hachimitsu (honey), complements hearty winter foods like steak or pork belly.

Yuki No Bosha Yamahai Junmai (Akita prefecture)

We're not sure how Akamaoh made the cut, since it's not in fact sake but soju, but we're glad it did...especially since it's from my boyfriend's home prefecture of Miyazake, which is in the South. Since it's made from imo (potato), rather than rice, it has much more in common with vodka than it does with wine. Hearty dishes like ribs, potato salad, and anything incorporating winter vegetables (basically squash) do it justice.

Akamaoh soju (Miyazake prefecture)

Maihime:Karakuchi Ki-Ippon (Nagano Prefecture)

Moderately dry and slightly aromatic with a tart finish, Maihime Karakuchi Ki-Ippon Tokobetsu Junmai is great with rich, buttery foods such as sukiyaki or okonomiyaki.

Bunraku: Nihonjin no Wasuremono (Saitama Prefecture)

Medium- bodied and smooth, the refreshing splash of rice

that greets one when taking a first sip of Nihonjin no Wasuremono

Yamahai Junmai is enough to make any Japanese person living in NYC, no matter for how long, remember where he came from. Brewed in Saitama, the hard water from the Arakawa River that runs through the prefecture augments its flavor. While great with any pungently flavored dish, it's especially nice with fishy foods like oysters or ikura (salmon eggs), since it acts as a palate cleanser.

Katana Junmai Ginjo (Shizuoka prefecture)

Katana Junmai Ginjo is as dry as the edge of a Japanese sword (shizuoka) is sharp...which is why it's awesome! Apparently it's great with a cheese plate, although I'd opt for a mozzarella with pomodoro and basil salad since mozzarella is one of the few cheeses I like. 

And speaking of Italian antipasta, what better way to end a meal than with a glass of limoncello for dessert? Only this is not limoncello; it's Tsukasabotan Yamayuzu Junmai. But this sake made from yamayuzu (mountain potato) has a refreshingly similar flavor. Indulge with some matcha or tiramisu!

Tsukasabotan Yamayuzu Junmai (Kuochi prefecture)

Tonjiru: Back to our roots

Fall is the perfect season for root veggies, and Japanese cooking is all about seasonal ingredients! Tonjiru is a type of pork stew flavored with ginger that incorporates the best of nature's underground medicinal candies, namely:

• Sato Imo Translated literally, sato imo means "village potato"; American people may know it as "taro".  Dirty in appearance with a rough exterior, their taste is similar to the potatoes we know but with a sticky texture; as a general rule with Japanese food, anything sticky is good for you. Because eating sato imo encourages natural production of hyaluronic acid in the body, it is believed that sato imo has incredible anti-aging powers. Evidence can be seen in the Japanese village of Yuzuri Hara, where it is common for residents to live well into their 90s and skin cancer is virtually non-existent. 

Sato Imo

• Konyakku Ever wonder why, despite smoking heavily chimneys indoors and out, Japanese people seem to suffer from lung cancer far less frequently than Americans? It may just be because they eat konyakku, which is thought to clean up the lungs. While this is NOT an excuse to smoke ciggies, you may want to reap it's benefits- especially if you suffer from asthma. Incidentally, it is also one of the frequently consumed root vegetables in Yuzuri Hara.   

Konnyaku

(here we used the noodle form, but it's also available in a gelatinous form with a slightly brown hue.)

• Daikon Aka Japanese radish. Daikon is especially effective for soothing an achy tummy. 
• Gobo We know this Northern European root as Burdock, but the Japanese put it to use just as well in tonjiru and other dishes. In addition to being an excellent source of potassium, it contains inulin, which helps regulate sugar and cholesterol levels in the blood.

Gobo

• Carrot (Ninjin) This needs no introduction. Carrots are full of vitamins A, B, and C as well as beta carotene. According to my fiancee, Japanese mothers also tell their kids that eating lots of carrots will enable them to one day see in the dark.
• Ginger An incredible immune booster, this is one of the best ingredients you can eat during flu season. Why do you think "lemon ginger tea" is popping up on cafe menus so often these days?

Turning them into tonjiru:

• Boil 4 sato imo for about 10 minutes. Remove from water and let cool.
• Bring a large pot of water to a boil and combine 1 carrot (chopped), 1/8 daikon (sliced), 1/4 pkg. enoki, 8 shitake mushrooms, and 1/4 onion. 
• Peel the sato imo (thanks to their stickiness, it is a bit of a pain to do this with a normal potato peeler. If you're not the patient type, just use a knife.) Add to the large pot and continue to boil. Be sure to scoop out the dirty bubbles with a teaspoon from time to time!
• Add 1/2 package konyakku
• Peel 4 gobo and grate them over the pot
• Add 3 tbsp mirin, 1 tbsp soy sauce

• 

  Age Tofu (fried tofu)

  
  

  chop about half pkg age tofu and add to pot  
• Add 2 wooden spoon sized scoop of red (aka) miso and about half pound of very thinly sliced pork. Boil five min more minutes.

Bring them all to a boil.......

• Grate ginger to taste and serve!

Ta-da! Tonjiru desu

Sake to Sakana: an Autumn Samna Celebration

The cool, crisp excitement of Fall in New York is fleeting; in all but the blink of an eye, the days go from being long and hazy to dark and frigid. For this reason, we New Yorkers should enjoy our Autumn days and appreciate each one as a true gift from Mother Nature. I can't think of any better way to pay homage than an outdoor barbecue with great friends.
Our charcoal fueled soiree took place a couple of weeks ago, way up north in Inwood Hill Park. With the Hudson River and a view of the Palisades serving as our backdrop, we sparked up the grill for a full on seafood fest. I took the liberty of dubbing it "Sake to Sakana", which translates literally to wine and fish. The star of the show was the sanma, a fish which peaks in Autumn and has a taste similar to mackerel. In English, is known as pacific saury. There was also shishamo, with bellies full of mentaiko (fish eggs). While eating a pregnant fish may seem a bit barbaric, you'll totally get over it when you taste it and realize you can't get caviar any fresher. At least, not for the same price.

The big guy is sanma; the little ones are shishamo

We muched on potato patties and sucked meat from giant crab claws and slurped clams from their shells;
somewhere in the midst of it all, we enjoyed some grilled onigri (rice balls) brushed with an ume (plum)

 sauce. 

As the sun began to descend, its golden rays inviting us to linger just a few minutes longer to digest, I was pleasantly overcome by a feeling of fullness; not just from the food, but from the fresh air which filled my lungs and the love of the people with whom I'd shared afternoon.